Chris Think Biker

All good things must come to an end.

They say all good things must come to an end and sadly my time in Gloucestershire Road Safety Partnership has done just that.

It has been an extremely tough decision but one that had to be made, deep down I believe it is the right decision for me however putting myself first is not something I am very good at hence it being such a difficult decision.

But its not all negative!

Since Sept 2009 we have achieved a huge amount having engaged with many thousands of riders and drivers reaching over 1 million people each year through social media.

Some of the initiatives launched were;

  • Continued and expanded the ‘Think Bike’ signage campaign.
  • Launched an award winning ‘Invisibles’ campaign joining forces with cycling to raise awareness of the ‘Failed to Look’ issue.
  • Educated drivers helping them understand the issue of ‘Failed to Look’
  • Launched Biker Down Gloucestershire
  • Helped hundreds of young and new riders make good choices as they venture onto two wheels.
  • Supported and promoted Bikesafe.
  • Joined forces with the County’s Advanced Motorcycle group to offer technical skills days.
  • Launched Max Rider.
  • In partnership with Castle Combe circuit, West of England & Somerset Road Safety to offer Rider Performance Days.
  • Produced an education package for young riders caught riding anti-socially as an alternative to prosecution (Op-Throttle)
  • Not forgetting the events attending offering advice to riders and drivers.

Think-Bike-Look-Twice-v2 1500x500 Bikes crew helo




Behind the scenes I have also;

  • Sat on the ACPO (NPCC) review panel for their national motorcycle safety strategy.
  • Been the riders voice within the Partnership, Highways, GCC, local town & district councils, I would still be a minority voice but an essential voice just the same.
  • Had I remained in this role I had been requested to sit on two national motorcycle safety forums, one within the Dft and the other within the National Roads Policing Intelligence Forum NRPIF.

The future of Motorcycle Safety in the County is a subject for the Partnership but at this time I cannot say what that will look like.

At the beginning I said ‘we’ have achieved, that’s because I have not worked alone and would never have achieved so much without the support of;

  • Rossy aka Rossy Glospolbiker (pic right) if you don’t know him, look him up on FB and Twitter.
  • Graham (pic left) GFRS Watch Manager and general nice guy.
  • And not forgetting the team which has changed over time but do go and meet them here Meet The Team
  • The team at SkillZONE
  • The list would go on forever with Police and Fire offering huge support.
  • Local businesses such as Glos bike specialist, Frasers and Thunder Road.
  • And then there is YOU, yes without YOU the riders and road users of Gloucestershire we would not have achieved what we have achieved.

It has been great being part of the local biking community although in recent years I have not had as much time as I would have liked to come out and join you at Biker Nights etc.

I am a biker at heart and motorcycling will go back to a leisure activity, this might mean some of you will see more of me, I may also continue with social media sharing my knowledge, experience and advice amongst the biking community.

So thank you everyone.

Chris . 😎



A Diversion from my day to day life

Harry Tangye

Nothing worse than driving up to a closed road with no explanation. Nothing worse than driving past a scene at 4mph after a 2 hour wait to find 6 police officers doing nothing with two on their mobiles. Don’t they realise I have missed my appointment and now have to re arrange it.  Don’t they realise I have missed my dinner I wanted with my family. Christ, what is this world coming to. Perhaps they could do with some more cuts if they can’t be bothered to do simple things like put diversion signs out for people, or get a shifty on so I could have done the things I wanted.

Well strap yourself in, we are going on a bumpy ride.

Serious Road Traffic Collision reported, and I’m on my way.  I have done these before, hundreds to be fair, and I know that two of my units are…

View original post 1,247 more words

Making Progress.

I often hear from riders who feel they have been pressured into both riding faster than they felt comfortable and/or performing unnecessary overtakes in the name of ‘Making Progress’ whilst working toward an advanced qualification.

It matters not whether the pressure is real or percieved it pushes riders to put themselves at risk by riding beyond their own capabilities.

Lets clear up the myth that is ‘Making Progress

  • First take the meaning of the word ‘Progress’ “forward or onward movement towards a destination’
  • Second lets look at RoSPA’ s use of the word “using the road and traffic conditions to progress unobtrusively”
  • Lastly the I.A.M. Who say their training will “encourage you to make good progress”

Civilian advanced riding’s origins are drawn from The Police System of Motorcycle Control aka Roadcraft, as civilians we do not need to ride with urgency or be required to respond to an emergency so there are parts of Roadcraft that do not apply.

Making progress is best achieved through good observation, anticipation and planning as opposed to speed. Due to the nature of our roads sustaining high speed for any length of time is rarely possible resulting in any high speed only coming in short bursts which have little or no effect on your overal journey time because those bursts do little to raise your overal average speed for that journey.

A good video that demonstrates quite nicely ‘Making Progress’

  1. Its 30 mins long but you quickly see how the car gets from Heathrow to New Scotland Yard in under 25 mins. a journey which would probably take over an hour, notable is the convoys lack of speed.
    Also notable is despite the outriders pace at times they don’t arrive at their destination any sooner.

Hopefully by now you are clear that speed doesn’t equal progress.

Making progress is, not being unnecessarily delayed, maintain a good average speed over a whole journey by using good observation, anticipation and planning some examples are;

  • Arriving at a roundabout when there’s a gap.
  • Reaching a set of traffic lights as they turn to green.
  • Filtering.
  • Utilising all lanes to gain advantage in congestion.

All of the above prevent you from having to come to a complete stop as this will impact on your journey time (progress) as time continues but you are not covering any distance.

Road craft and any other riding manual will tell you that riding within your own limits, the limits of your machine and all within the confines of any given circumstances is an essential ingredient to being a good (or even better than good) rider.


If you are feeling pressured into doing something that makes you feel uncomfortable then don’t do it.

Do ask yourself why it made you feel uncomfortable and if a similar situation arose how you could deal with it within your own limits and comfort zone.

If the discomfort is the result of pressure from someone who is supposed to be helping you improve your riding then tell them, make them explain to you why the ability to complete a particular manoeuvre will make you a better rider and add to your safety.

If you are not convinced it may be time to look for a different trainer/organisation as there are some really good ones out there.



The ability to overtake in a safe and timely manner is an essential part of being a good rider, even more essential is restraint and the ability to assess ones own ability and confidence levels so making someone feel uncomfortable or pressurising riders into overtakes which return little or no advantage does nothing for their riding ability or safety.

Should a rider struggle with or be reluctant to overtake instead of hiding behind the old ‘making progress’ line try working with them constructively to improve their skillset, pressure and discomfort aren’t great teaching tools.




Being a motorcycling Chameleon

It is that time of year when, not just the weather but road conditions can change very quickly so for our best chance of survival we need to adapt quickly to those changes, not by changing colour to blend into the background like a Chameleon but to be prepared to adapt our riding style to the current conditions.

Temperature management.

I do not need to tell you how you will feel the cold when riding but before setting off consider the likely temperatures for the whole day especially as the sun sets early the temperature can drop very quickly if we have been sweating all day this will add to the effect of the cold.

Layering; This is the  most effective way to keep warm.

  • Base layer; Avoid cotton instead choose a well fitting garment containing moisture wicking fabric this will transfer the moisture from your skin to your outer garments.
  • Insulating Layer; Wool, down or fleece have great insulating properties as your base layer will transfer moisture to this layer again avoid cotton.
  • Outer layer; Depending on your chosen bike kit and the impending weather this may be suitable as your outer layer you could also consider a lightweight waterproof outer layer that can double up as a wind blocker.

Layering should be used for your whole body, not forgetting your feet the great advantage of layers is that they can be removed or added during the day to adapt to the conditions, take care not to bulk up with so much clothing that your movement or circulation is restricted.

 Respect the road conditions.

The condition of the road constantly changes at this time of year so we need to constantly adapt to it.

  • Where there are trees expect leaves these can also cover mud and can turn into a slippery mulch, the tree cover also prevents the road from drying so can remain wet and slippery even after surrounding roads have dried.
  • Mud on the road; even those farms that do their absolute best to keep the road clear will still drag mud from the fields onto the road, this can also occur where vehicles drive too close to the verge spreading mud across the road, expect it plan for it avoid roads known for this issue where possible if you cant avoid it reduce your speed, keep the bike as upright as possible and avoid harsh braking or acceleration.
  • Wet road surface; Check out my previous blog on riding in the wet, clean wet roads can offer a greater level of grip than you might think.


  • Fog; We know it reduces the distance we can see clearly but it can also cling to our visors, keeping your visor polished or coated with a suitable water repellent will help keep your visor clear.
  • Wind; When the wind gusts this can make riding tricky but by being prepared for it and planning for it we can cope.
    • Gaps in hedges, wall, buildings or even other vehicles are where you we can get hit by a gust, use clues such as trees and hedges to understand from which direction the wind is coming from.
    • Sheltered spots may offer some relief from the wind but take care as you enter them as you and the bike are likely to be leant over to counter the wind direction causing you to turn as the wind drops.
    • Head winds; if your bike doesn’t protect you consider dropping your head forward into the wind or even lowering your upper body to reduce the effects but be aware this could restrict your forward view.
    • Tail winds; not so much of a problem but strong gusts could make the bike unstable and could increase our stopping distance.
  • Its not all doom and gloom we do get clear, dry sunny days but even these can create their own unique issues.
    • Low Sun; If we are riding into the sun this can make seeing where we are going difficult, tinted visors can help or a helmet with an internal sun shade the bigger issue is when the sun is behind us making us virtually invisible we are not big enough to create a shadow so we tend to completely disappear all you can do is be aware of this and be more prepared than usual for not being seen by others.


  • As we started with an animal theme we shouldn’t forget about those larger animals that are on the move at this time of year especially around dusk, deer, boar, fox’s and badgers can cause issues for riders often the issue comes after a rider has swerved to avoid an animal in the road only to either collide with another vehicle or lose control and crash, the best action to take is to brake, braking progressively and hard to scrub off speed this can reduce the impact forces, give the animal time to get out of your way or once you have lost sufficient speed enable you to ride around the animal.
  • Where You Look Is Where You Go (WYLIWYG); puddles, mud, leaves or animals if you focus on them you will ride into them so once spotted scan for a good bit of road or a gap behind or in front of an animal and your bike will follow your line of sight remembering to take your gaze back up to the view ahead once past the hazard so as not to miss the next one.

Filtering, Ride to Survive


We have seen many articles, some from law firms stating ‘Filtering is legal’ these articles have caused much celebration amongst bikers but how many of those articles have gone on to define the legal definition of filtering?

Rule 88 Highway Code; when filtering in slow-moving traffic, take care and keep your speed low.

This rule doesn’t really help us define filtering because the measure of ‘slow’. ‘low speed’ and ‘care’ is subjective and we may all have different interpretations of their meaning.

Civil law,

Should your filtering result in a claim either by you or against you it can be influenced by previous judgements this is called case law however by looking through the cases linked below you will see each case is taken on it’s own merits.

Note; links take you to an external website, I am not responsible for the content of that website nor am I in any way promoting the website or the services they provide.

Harding-V-Hinchcliffe-1964 Clarke-V-Windchurch-1969 Worsford-V-Howie-1980 Fagan-V-Jeffers-2005

Davis-V-Scrogin-2006 Woodham-V-Turner-2012

In summary if it goes wrong whilst filtering don’t expect the law to automatically back you up or that you will be deemed to be in the right just because someone said ‘Filtering is Legal’ what we need to do is to care for ourselves and do our best to prevent it from going wrong.

Getting it right.

Filtering is risky because drivers are not expecting us to be passing them, they won’t expect it because it doesn’t occur on a regular basis it isn’t normal their focus is more likely to be on the queue ahead or maybe a gap in the next lane or even a turning or entrance so we need to be prepared to have not been seen, stress can also be heightened both for the driver who’s journey may have been delayed and by the rider who may feel threatened or at risk due to the limited space to manoeuvre.

Keep your cool

Getting angry may seem like a just response to an offending driver but with your judgement temporarily clouded by ‘red mist’ you are likely to make a mistake or poor judgement call resulting in a crash of your own making, don’t force your way through flashing headlights revving engines or using your horn this is unlikely to make drivers help other riders in the future.

Risk vs Gain

Before starting to filter ask yourself what you will gain and will that gain outweigh the risk, e.g. Passing a few cars waiting at a junction, passing a queue and then you turn onto a different road or into a petrol station, starting to filter when traffic is about to move off once you have started filtering be prepared to give it up and join the traffic flow.

In this clip the lanes narrow as they change from two to three lanes and drivers start to change lanes it’s time to stop filtering and join the traffic flow.

Exit strategy

Before starting to filter are you certain you can get through, have you got somewhere to go a gap to move into, don’t get stuck beside a large vehicle especially where lanes narrow or a bend such as on the approach to a roundabout.

In this clip the bus is making the gap narrow although I could have squeezed through but by being patient and waiting for the silver car to pass the bus the gap opens up and I can pass with ease.


There isn’t a number to give you as it will depend on the conditions so consider these points; the faster the traffic is moving the quicker they can change lanes or turn, the faster we are moving the longer it will take us to stop it also becomes harder to make sudden manoeuvres we also need to consider pedestrians as they will not be expecting to come across a moving vehicle in stationary traffic. Speed differential, the difference between you and the vehicles you are passing needs to be managed carefully and kept low.

Gaps-V-Pinch points

A pinch point where a pair of cars are side by side may seem like a risky gap to go through but in reality, providing the gap is wide enough for you to pass through it is safer than passing a car with an empty lane next to it as it increases the likelihood of the driver changing lanes.

In this clip passing between the brown car and van is relatively low risk as neither of them are looking to change lane the greater risk comes from the silver car in lane one, it’s close to the centre line and there is a gap for it to move into in lane two. Again with patience I make sure I know what the driver is going to do before committing to pass.

U & Right turners

Just as when there is an empty lane on dual carriageway an empty lane on a single carriageway is an invitation for a driver to make a U-turn or right turn especially in long queues this is where an appropriate speed can allow you to stop and avoid these drivers even if they do check their mirror before manoeuvring their focus will be on looking for a gap in the traffic coming the other way. A Right turn manoeuvre is the most common manoeuvre by drivers who are involved in collisions with motorcycles.

Blind Spots

Ok we all know all vehicles have blind spots, actually it’s a large area either side of the vehicle not a spot and to pass other vehicles we have no choice but to pass through that blind area, if you are passing moving vehicles avoid lingering in the area not visible in their mirrors.

The diagram gives us an idea of those blind areas this varies between vehicle type and size, the short clip shows how I have positioned myself to ‘be seen’ by both drivers, how do I know this because I can see them in their mirrors.


Some Rules to consider

Pedestrian Crossings Rule 191 You MUST NOT overtake (this includes filtering) the moving vehicle nearest the crossing or the vehicle nearest the crossing which has stopped to give way to pedestrians.

Double white lines where the line nearest you is solid Rule 129. This means you MUST NOT cross or straddle it unless it is safe and you need to enter adjoining premises or a side road. You may cross the line if necessary, provided the road is clear, to pass a stationary vehicle, or overtake a pedal cycle, horse or road maintenance vehicle, if they are travelling at 10 mph (16 km/h) or less.

Areas of white diagonal stripes Rule 130 or chevrons painted on the road. These are to separate traffic lanes or to protect traffic turning right.

  • If the area is bordered by a broken white line, you should not enter the area unless it is necessary and you can see that it is safe to do so.
  • If the area is marked with chevrons and bordered by solid white lines you MUST NOT enter it except in an emergency.

Advanced stop lines Rule 178. Some signal-controlled junctions have advanced stop lines to allow cycles to be positioned ahead of other traffic. Motorists, including motorcyclists, MUST stop at the first white line reached if the lights are amber or red and should avoid blocking the way or encroaching on the marked area at other times

Hatched areas might seem like a useful lane to filter in but they can be littered with tyre puncturing debris.

Hatched area

Ride to survive, Riding in the wet

Embedded image permalinkDoes riding in the wet fill you with fear?

I actually enjoy riding in the wet and whether you choose to or not the likelihood is you will at some stage find yourself riding a wet road so avoiding the inevitable won’t make it easier when that day arrives.


Avoid tensing your body, locked elbows with fear fuelled grip on the bars will only make your bike feel nervous and twitchy further fuelling that fear a relaxed position will allow you to be smooth and the bike will feel more confident.

The bars are controls hold them lightly, dropping your shoulders and elbows your forearms should roughly be parallel with the tops of your legs regardless of the type of bike you ride, hold yourself on the bike with your inner thighs this relaxed position will allow your bike to cope with any minor loss of grip it will also make it easier for you to be smooth with the controls making the bike feel confident building your own confidence.

Bends & Roundabouts.

Remaining in our relaxed position on the bike we need to balance care with confidence, we know riding very slowly effects the bikes balance making it feel nervous that will not help you if you are already feeling nervous. What will help is to generate cornering forces which push the tyre onto the road surface improving grip.

The above diagram demonstrates how as lean angle increases so does the force pushing the tyre onto the road surface.

The above does rely on the level of grip available which goes back to my previous comment regarding balancing care with confidence the essential ingredient is being smooth by initiating the turn smoothly we are less likely to force the tyre to lose grip.

On approach whilst upright set your speed for the corner, staying relaxed lean and turn you want to negotiate the bend with an open throttle, not accelerating but enough throttle to maintain a constant speed through a curve as you build confidence you may find you can apply a little more throttle to gradually build speed through the curve. Keep your eyes up looking through the curve toward the exit, it is al;l too easy for our focus to be drawn to the wet road surface but allowing this to happen will again increase your feeling of nervousness.


The way to brake in the wet is the same as in the dry, progressively, squeeze the lever which in turn shifts more weight onto the front tyre increasing as you continue to squeeze the more load applied to the front tyre the less likely it is to lose grip although both in the dry and wet it will have a limit, stay relaxed avoid locking your elbows and continue to squeeze the lever.

The important part is ensuring you have shifted the load onto the front wheel before applying any substantial braking this will help to prevent a loss of grip, should you lose grip your relaxed position will allow you to release the brake and reapply as before.

Progressive braking can be carried out quickly and is the best method even in an emergency of course forward planning and anticipation are the best ways to avoid having to brake in an emergency so give yourself more space and time than you would in the dry.


By now hopefully you will have noticed a theme, smooth and relaxed. Sudden or harsh movements of the throttle can force the rear tyre to break grip or if the bike leaning over we could force the front tyre to break grip.

Dry or wet the most effective way to accelerate is to wind the throttle on progressively, increasing the throttle smoothly as your speed increases neing in the correct gear helps avoid you having to close and open the throttle to control your speed when negotiating bends etc. Think of your throttle as an adjustment instead of an on off switch.

Ok i havent mentioned the rear brake, abs, linked brakes or traction control because that all becomes very bike specific but the above requires practice and the best time to do this is in the dry it then all becomes natural and part of every day riding so the day you either get caught out in the rain or are bored of waiting for summer and get out for a ride in the wet you will enjoy it making it a ride fuelled by fun and not fear.

If you have read this far then here is a short video which shows riding in the wet can be fun, it comes with a warning Dont try this at home.

Ride to Survive, Junctions

The most likely place a rider is going to be involved in a collision is at a junction and it will be because the driver looked but didn’t see you and/or because of our size they misjudged how soon we would arrive at the junction, if this is so common and we as riders know it happens why does it still catch riders out?


You know the junctions there so you now have a choice, rely on luck, rely on someone else or take control of the situation.

● On approach position your bike where it will give the driver the best opportunity to see you.
● Think about your speed, if the driver pulls out could you stop?
● Avoid overtakes at junctions.
● As you get closer to the junction consider moving away to the left or right away from the emerging driver.
● Can you see the driver, can they see you.
● A car wheel starting to turn as it moves suggests they might be pulling out, don’t rely on eye contact.
● Have an escape plan, what will you do if the driver does pull out?


                                                                         Expect it-Plan for it-Have a plan B

You may think you have lightning reactions but they may not be quick enough to save you where as a calmy executed plan will give you time to deal with what ever happens.

Motorcycle Clothing – Fashion or Protection?

Motorcycle Clothing – Fashion or Protection?

When we go looking for new kit there are so many decisions to make, textile or leather, colour, design, brand, comfort,  fit and of course price. With all this to think about it can be easy to forget what the other purpose of that kit is which is to protect from injury.

Motorcycle clothing can be split into three basic types.

  1. Non-Protective. Outer clothing constitutes a barrier to the elements; wind, rain and cold.  Any claims of protection from this type of clothing breaches UK law and PPE regulations.
  2. Non-Protective with CE approved impact protection.  The outer garment still protects against the elements but in addition is fitted with protectors usually in the knee, hip, elbow and back.  These will all bear the CE mark.
  3. Protective. Trousers & jackets, one and two piece leathers, gloves and boots where the manufacturer claims that they offer ‘protection’.  These must have been tested according to the required standard and bear the relevant marking.

How do you know which is which?

Initially we are lead by the manufacturers’ claims.  If they say the garment offers protection it must provide the rider with adequate armour, impact or abrasion resistant properties.  However it is possible that consumers can still be misled.

For example; limb and back protectors are fitted to protect those parts of the body, yet we see manufacturers fitting foam panels into garments which will not offer much protection.  But providing the manufacturer doesn’t claim they will, they are trading within the law.

Know your stuff

Any approved garment must be labelled, CE labels must;

  • Display the CE logo
  • Should be printed in the language of the country where the product is marketed
  • Display the name and ID number of the testing  institute
  • The relevant EN number which is appropriate to the type of protection.

Where CE limb protectors are fitted inside a non-protective garment some manufacturers may infer that the whole garment is CE approved by sewing the CE label that refers to the limb protectors into the garments lining. By checking the EN number you will know which parts of the garment have been tested.

What’s an EN number?

An EN number is a reference number applied to each individual standard. The specific numbers applied to motorcycle clothing are;

EN 1621-1 Protection against mechanical impact on motorcyclists. This test is used to assess the protective qualities of armour worn on limb joints and to ensure it reduces the amount of energy transmitted to the joint following an impact.  It also includes tests at different temperatures and after storage in humid conditions.

EN 1621-2 Back & lumbar protectors.  Whilst it is tested in a similar way to limb protectors the testing anvil and striker are different to simulate the way a back protector works.

EN 13595-1 Garment, its’ materials and construction covering various tests.

  • Impact abrasion – Tested by dropping a material sample onto an abrasive belt moving at approx. 18mph. This test ends when the sample is holed.
  • Seam burst strength – The sample is stretched in all directions and the pressure required to burst the sample is recorded.
  • Impact cut A striker fitted with a sharp blade is dropped with a defined energy onto a sample of material and the maximum penetration of the blade through the material is measured.

EN13634 Foot Protection.  This test involves materials, torsional resistance, impact, penetration and burst strength. There are 2 levels of protection: Level 1 must resist abrasion for 5 seconds, for Level 2 this must last for 12 seconds.

EN 13594 Gloves.  These are tested for resistance against abrasion and impact.  It can also include a test for the likelihood of the glove being pulled or thrown from the hand during a crash.

EN 14021 Stone shields for off road motorcycles.  These are tested to ensure protection against minor impacts from stones thrown up when riding.  The shield is also tested for its design, dimensions, impact performance and ergonomics.

I’m not suggesting all unapproved gear will not protect you but CE approved protection does offer you a guarantee about the level of protection offered and with the above information you can make an informed choice.


Heads or Tails, are you leaving driving or riding to chance?


“I’ve been driving for years and never had a crash, there is nothing wrong with my driving” sound familiar?

So you may have completed numerous journeys successfully but is that success a real measure of you getting it right or wrong, good or bad, safe or unsafe?

The driver who performs a manoeuvre 100 times ‘successfully’ who then subsequently crashes performing that same manoeuvre on attempt number 101 has in fact got it wrong 101 times however by chance the first 100 attempts didn’t result in a crash providing of course our driver carried out the manoeuvre in the same way on each attempt.

So why do we rely so heavily on previous successes as a measure of our own ability?

Our brain is very good at learning from past mistakes but if our journey goes without incident we will have learnt very little about how to avoid an incident in the future instead we continue blissfully unaware of our flaws even a near miss, the other driver blowing their horn in anger or the screeching of tyres is unlikely to be taken as a lesson.

Why not?

We self justify our mistakes or poor decisions to avoid taking responsibility and seeing ourselves in a negative light refusing to admit that mistake even to ourselves, OK self justification isn’t always a bad trait without it  we could become over anxious even depressive over something that was relatively minor in fact we could become so focused on the error we have just made whilst driving that we become distracted from the task in hand causing more serious errors.

If we allow ourselves to be blinded by our self justification just like water going down the plug hole we will get drawn deeper into complacency fuelling our belief that it won’t happen to me, it wasn’t my fault, there was nothing i could do, allowed to grow unchallenged we will justify bigger and more costly errors to the extent it can alter our perspective on reality.

“I don’t do that”.

If the above thought has just popped into your head you have just justified an error, we all do it to varying degrees in all areas of our lives.

Changing the way we think.

Every time you ride or drive don’t use the number of successful journeys to calculate the chance of your current journey being unsuccessful instead start at 50/50 then in order to shift the chances in your favour build on your previous experiences of how it went right by asking yourself what will i do if it goes differently.

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